Calibration of the table. Battery calibration on Android - how to do it right? How Dota 2 is calibrated

Battery problems are one of the biggest problems that mobile device users can face. If you notice that the battery life of your smartphone or tablet has dropped dramatically, it is best not to procrastinate and start calibrating it.

So, in today's article, we'll look at how to calibrate the battery on Android.

Signs that the battery is out of order

First of all, it is necessary to find out why the performance of the accumulator has deteriorated: the matter is in the battery itself or in the calibration system. Indeed, in the event of physical damage, no software setting will help. Getting to the tablet battery is quite difficult. So it's best not to try if you don't know how to do it right. Phones are much easier.

There are times when a tablet is needed. How to do it will be described below.

Remove the back cover of the phone and remove the battery. Examine it well for bumps. Some models of smartphones are equipped with non-removable batteries, which are soldered into the device, or the same type of covers. Then inspect the back panel to see if it sticks out. If your phone no longer lies flat on the table, then this could also be a sign of bumps in the battery. If they are present on the battery, the smartphone should be taken to a service center. Otherwise, learn how to calibrate the battery on Android yourself.

Also, keep in mind that there are many other reasons for poor battery performance. For example, if your smartphone stops charging, there is most likely a problem with the charger port.

What is Battery Calibration?

How do I calibrate the battery on Android? What is this process?

Each Android or iOS device has a dedicated controller that collects statistics on battery consumption. It determines the true amount of energy in the battery at the current time. Sometimes problems happen with this controller. It stops displaying real numbers, from which the phone may, for example, turn off prematurely (that is, before the charge level reaches zero).

Calibration is needed to reset the default settings. It sets the charge level according to the current technical condition of the battery.

How to properly calibrate the battery on Android without Root rights?

Immediately it is necessary to make a reservation that calibration will not increase the capacity of the battery, but will only force the controller to display the correct information. Which is also very important. The easiest way to calibrate the battery on Android is to fully charge and discharge, but this method can have a negative impact on battery life. However, if the battery is causing you too much inconvenience, then it makes sense to take a chance.

1. First, allow your device to fully discharge until it turns off.
2. Connect the charger to your phone or tablet and, without turning on the device, keep it on charge for several hours. It should be fully charged.
3. Disconnect the charging cable.
4. Turn on your mobile device. Most likely, the indicator will inform you that the battery is not one hundred percent charged. Put the device back on charge, but now do not turn it off. You need the indicator to show one hundred percent.
5. Repeat these steps until the indicator shows correct information.
6. After that, allow the device to fully discharge and turn off one more time, and then recharge it.

Calibrating the Android Battery: Configuring the Charge Controller via Root

It should be reminded that it is not recommended to use the above method too often. Even when the battery is depleted to the point that the phone will not turn on, it retains a small amount of power to avoid system errors. But it is better not to tempt fate and calibrate the battery manually no more than once every three months. In simple words, a complete discharge or overloading of the battery is extremely bad for it.

The next method is even more effective (and no less risky), but for it you need to get Root rights. So, how to calibrate the battery on Android using Root:

1. Repeat the steps above.
2. Install the Battery Calibration app. Before installing, make sure that the charge indicator shows one hundred percent. Reboot your device.
3. Run the application immediately. It will calibrate the battery itself.

That, in fact, is all. We hope that the question of how to calibrate the battery on Android has now been resolved.

The batteries of modern smartphones and tablets running the Android operating system have sufficient capacity for a mobile device to work without recharging for more than a day with an average load. Over time, of course, the ability to hold a charge weakens and the gadget has to be charged more often. The first serious problems in battery operation usually begin after 500 full discharge / charge cycles, but in some cases, a significant decrease in battery life can be observed after 100-200 cycles, and if you take it in time, after a few months.

The first thing that usually comes to mind for the average user in such a situation is replacing the battery. However, this is an extreme measure and it is worth resorting to it only when the battery has physically exhausted itself. In any case, it is better not to rush and to begin with, perform a procedure such as calibrating the Android battery.

What is calibration and what is it for

Calibration is bringing a device, in this case a battery, to an optimal state, in a word, optimization. It is performed in those cases when problems arise in the operation of the device that are not caused by the physical wear and tear of its constituent components.

The reason for the calibration may be the stopping of the charge progress at a level that does not reach 100 percent, the rapid discharge of an unused battery, disconnecting the device from the autonomous power supply when the level of 50 (or less) percent is reached, as well as disconnecting immediately after the battery has been fully charged. In this article, we will provide some examples of how to properly calibrate the battery on Android. There are two main calibration methods - hardware and software. Let's start with the first one.

Manual hardware battery calibration

Connect a working smartphone to a power source and wait until the charging indicator shows 100 percent or maximum value. Then turn off the device completely and reconnect it to the mains. When a signal appears on the screen that the battery is fully charged, turn on the gadget and deactivate the backlight auto-blanking function in the screen settings, that is, sleep mode.

Bring the charge level to full again and leave the device to discharge with the display on. After the battery has used up the entire power supply and the device is completely turned off, put it on charge again (not including) and bring the charge level to 100 percent. The calibration is done, do not forget to turn the sleep mode back on.

Programmatic calibration method with root access

The second method involves the use of third-party software and superuser rights. First of all, download and install the program from the Market Battery Calibration from SuperThomasLab. Then charge the device to the limit. Then launch the application, root it and see what level of charge it shows.

If the battery is not all right, most likely the values ​​of the standard indicator on the screen and the parameter in the program will differ. Continue charging until the level reaches the maximum, and then press the "Calibration" button and restart the smartphone.

Software calibration without root rights

You can calibrate the Android battery using the software method without having superuser rights. Apps for these purposes can also be found in the Google Store. The most popular of these is Battery Calibration, only this time from the developer NeMa. Resetting the battery with it is carried out according to the same principle as in the application of the same name from SuperThomasLab.

Calibration via recovery mode

There is another working way to calibrate your smartphone battery. This time, third-party programs are not needed at all. Turn off the device, and then simultaneously pressing the volume up, power and Home buttons, boot into recovery mode.

Go to the "Advanced" section, find the "wipe battery stats" option there and use it to reset the battery settings.

Departing from the text. Cleaning with "wipe battery stats" deletes the system file batterystats.bin containing records of battery usage and previous calibrations. Programs like Battery Calibration do the same. Everything, it would seem, is correct, except that the point in the disputes over the effectiveness of this method has not yet been put.

Some Google engineers, notably Diane Hackborne, argue that the batterystats.bin file deletion calibration is nothing more than a myth. According to their authoritative assertions, the specified file serves solely to collect information about the use of the battery by processes and in no way affects the battery life. However, many users claim that clearing the batterystats.bin has allowed them to increase the battery efficiency on their device.

Engineering menu or Hard Reset

In fact, this method of calibration involves a complete reset of the device to factory settings, as a result of which all data, including battery usage, will be deleted. The method is considered radical, since in this case all programs, licenses and user information will be removed. It is recommended that you fully discharge and charge the battery five times before resetting. After that, you enter or directly boot into recovery mode and perform a complete reset of the device.

So, we have learned how to do battery calibration on Android. How effective it will be depends primarily on the physical condition of the battery. If its age is more than 3-5 years or the number of full discharge / charge cycles has reached the limit values ​​according to its specification, then it is no longer necessary to think about calibration, but about a full replacement of the battery.

Having reached level 13 in Dota 2, it becomes possible to play ranked games. If you win, you will receive a rating (hereinafter we will call it MMR), and if you lose, it will be removed. But there is one point that should be considered in more detail, this is the accrual of the starting MMR.

As you know, you need to play 10 games in order to calibrate your rating to such a value where you could play comfortably and pleasantly with opponents of approximately your level. The starting MMR value can be from 1000 to 4500, or even up to 5000. So, further in this guide we will talk about how to calibrate your rating to 4500 mmr.

- KDA
- Skill bracket
- Winrate

These are three factors that affect your calibration. What does it mean? Everything is very simple, it turns out that it is not enough just to play 10 matches during calibration and get a high mmr, your previous games will certainly affect the future rating.

KDA Is the ratio of kills and assists to deaths: (kills + assists) / death = KDA. It should be about 4 - 5. That is, you need to try to play so that the average CDA for your games is kept at the desired level, for example, 1 kill, 4 assists and one death. It’s not hard to do if you don’t die.

Skill bracket Is the level of the game. It can be viewed at. There are 4 skill brackets: no level, normal level, advanced and very high levels. You find yourself with other players to the level to which the strongest player belongs.

In other words, this means that if you play a solo game and wrote on the dotabaf that the game is high skill, then you are probably on the right track and after calibration you will get more than 4000 MMR. If you don't write anything, then do not despair anyway, this is not the main indicator.

Winrate Is the ratio of wins to the total number of games. It is believed that the higher it is, the better. But ideally, it should just be above 54%. This figure is taken from practice and is not supported by any theoretical formula, because no one knows them. It's like a religion, there is only faith.

We draw conclusions! Almost from your first game, you start calibrating your rating, or rather, making the basis for calibration. Before calibration, you need to have a good CDA, noticeably 4 and a win rate of at least 53- 54%, that's all you need, especially CDA.

Calibration process

I will immediately reveal all the cards so as not to pull the rubber. All that affects your future MMR during calibration is the damage done to the heroes. What does it mean? This means that you can drain all calibration matches, but you will cause a lot of damage and get the rating number you need.

As soon as the players realized this, then everyone began to pick Zeus and do a lot of damage, but then Valve took action and added a condition that only the damage that was inflicted on heroes within a radius of less than 2000 from the calibrator is considered.

How do you do the damage you want?

To inflict the necessary damage, you need to pick heroes with mass skills and are in a batch while you attack. It could be the same Zeus, Warlock, Sven, Kunka. Decide for yourself.

Suddenly, several top groups threw this record on their walls, but they do not know the authorship: D Here is the author's vk https://vk.com/so_black_snowman
Hello, my darlings. I am glad that my post about boosting and scammers in it was warmly received on this forum.
There, one person asked in the comments - what could be dumber than spending money on boosting? I will answer - Drain the money for calibration! Why do you ask? My answer (which thread of Altaoda would kill me for this: D): What affects the PMM obtained after calibration ?: I, as a person who can and have already calibrated, explain to you. There are many factors involved. And it is not surprising, but it is not enough "to quickly raise 13 lvl". Already from your first game on 1 lvle of the account, you make the ground for your PMM after calibration at 13 lvl! Now I will explain to you how it is almost guaranteed to get from 4k + rmma after calibration (and earlier and 5k +).
KDA: What is CDA? This is the ratio of Kills, Deaths and Asists. It is calculated simply:
(Kills + Asists) divided by the number of Deaths. When you play from level 1 to 13, remember one thing. An important thing. DO NOT DIE! If you have an average CDA on your account of 4-5, then your PMM will be pretty high. Who is worth taking in order to die a little and kill / assist a lot ?: Slark, Weaver, Ember, Phoenix and many others. You need heroes that can deal a lot of damage in the area or have the ability to survive, and if both are generally gorgeous. Zeus, Spectra and Furion are clearly a separate conversation. Mass ult all over the map is a useful thing for filling asisto and keels.
Winrate: Many believe that winrate plays a key role prior to the calibration stage. This is not true. It is naturally desirable to have a win rate above 53% -54% before starting calibration games, however, if you have 70% win rate, this does not mean that you will have 4900 rpm after calibration. Not at all. You need to find a middle ground. Having an average CDA of ~ 5 and a win rate of ~ 56% - and then you can count on a very good rmm.
Dotabuff: Yes Yes. I'm talking about a dotabuff site. dotabuff.com... Why did I mention it. I advise you to enable access to matches in the DotA settings and periodically log into your DotAuff account. First of all, you will be able to see your winrate and KDA. But no less important - you must find games where it is shown in which skill bracket you are playing. You can see this under the icon of the hero you played in the match

I have a veri high skill. This means that those with whom I play have ~ 3700 and more (even at 7k mmr, veri high shows you, because there is simply no higher skill bracket). You also need that in some games there was a "high skill" at the bottom. If you see such an inscription at level 12, rejoice. You will have a pretty good hmm. Before the calibration of the "veri high skill" bracket, I had not yet seen the bracket (although in the comments they showed that it is possible to play on vx from the first games. Strange. I didn’t notice such loyalty before). Few people know that even BEFORE passing the calibration, everyone has a "mmr". Even at 3 lvl you already have a "mmr rating". But you simply do not have access to it. So, during the calibration for 10 games, you can raise about 1.5k-2.k MMRa (depending on how well you played. More on this later). That is, having "invisible 2000 MMRa" on lvl 13, you will be able to raise it to 4k and even higher due to calibration. ^ this is all theory, but many (including me) believe in it. Actually "invisible mmr" you get at the expense of CDA and winrate. CALIBRATION: So we got to that very one =) Previously, everyone thought that in the calibration, KDA and winrate also decide. But then it turned out that nifiga. You can play all games with KDA 3 and lose all 10 calibration matches. From this, the output of the RMM will change little. Decides in the first place in the calibration of DAMAGE ON HEROES! Like this. And then everyone started picking Zeus in every calibration game and hitting the ult per CD, giving out 40k damage per game. Valve missed it and introduced a restriction. DAMAGE to heroes is only counted if you inflicted it on an enemy hero at a distance of 2000 from you! So who should you take to deal a lot of damage to heroes? The answer is obvious - those who can inject a lot of AOE damage \ have a lot of cruel nuances. Here Kvopa \ Lina \ all the same Zeus (but already to ult in a fight when everything is close to you) \ Kunkka, etc., enter the stage. That is, during calibration, you no longer need to survive, but DAMAGE! How much damage do you need to deal? there are no special numbers, since in a 20 minute game you physically cannot inflict something in the region of 30k damage. You just need to do the MOST damage (or in the top 3 in terms of damage per game). Naturally, the more the better, but if you find yourself in a match in the middle of the table, it's bad. You can check your damage on the same dotabuff.

Outcome: What conclusions do we draw? Before calibration (13 lvl, respectively), it is mainly KDA and Winrate that decide (the first is more than the second. I calibrated the account with 5kda and 49% winrate and came out a candy with 4600 mmr). During calibration decides DAMAGE ON HEROES!
And remember. Even if they calibrate you to 4.7k, this does not mean that you will not fall to 3k and below))

I will answer the most frequently asked questions:
I have an account of 13 lvl. It has an average CDA of 2 and a win rate of 45%. How much will I get after calibration? If you calibrate very well (or someone else for you) then you will probably get a maximum of 4k on such an account, if not less. And then the calibrator will have to fog up very much every game.
I was promised to calibrate my account at 4.5k. If your dotabuff account hasn't even been looked at, feel free to send this person three letters. Since he is most likely a deceiver.
And what is the maximum MMD now after calibration? There is a lot of controversy about this. Someone says 4.7k, someone 4.8, and someone does 5k. I believe that about 4.8k-5k is really the maximum, but for this the account must be very good, with a CDA of 5-7 and a win rate of 60% -65 +%. Previously, it was possible to calibrate at 5.5k + = (
So I need to play like a rat until lvl 13 and survive? But then how to win? Not really. You just need to learn how to leave on time! If you feel that the fight is lost, then it is better to run away than die too. If you are not confident in your abilities, do not meddle. It will be difficult at first, but you will learn. I'm sure.
How to avoid scamming calibrators? Unfortunately, there is no way. All that remains is to appeal to those you trust.

Are not ideal systems. They can have different lengths, imperfect geometric shapes, disturbances in the composition of the internal electrolyte, etc. All this affects their characteristics and, at the same time, this is quite normal, since there are certain tolerances in any production. Therefore, everyone needs a calibration that helps the device establish the relationship between the signal from the electrode and the pH value in the solution.

Calibration is a very crucial moment! One must be aware of the impossibility of measuring pH with an accuracy greater than the standards used. For example, if you want to work with an accuracy of 0.01 pH, then the following conditions must be met: the total error of the pH meter and electrode should not exceed 0.005 pH and calibration should be performed with special attention on special high-precision buffer solutions. You cannot buy such solutions, since they are not stored. They will have to be prepared independently, using specially prepared reagents and water.

If you do not have the opportunity to prepare a buffer with an accuracy of +/- 0.005 pH, then you will have to be content with branded buffer solutions, the accuracy of which is ensured at the level of +/- 0.02 pH. When calibrated according to such standards, the total error will not exceed 0.04 - 0.03 pH, provided that the error of the device is at the level of 0.01 pH. This is the most common practice, and you will not find a single method or GOST where it would be required to maintain the pH with an accuracy higher than 0.05 pH. The only exceptions are some pharmaceutical and specialized industries.

Modern pH electrodes are usually combined, i.e. the same housing contains both the pH electrode and the reference electrode. In addition to ease of use, this provides faster response times and reduced overall error.

The isoelectric point for such electrodes is at pH = 7 (0 mV). Therefore, first of all, the instrument should be calibrated against a buffer with neutral pH (for example, 6.86 or 7.01). The second point should be chosen at a distance of about 3 pH units, i.e. pH = 4 or 10. If the device is calibrated with only two buffers, then the choice of the second point depends on the range in which you mainly work. If these are alkaline solutions, then use a buffer with pH = 10, if acidic - with pH = 4. This is due to some difference in the slopes of the calibration lines in the acidic and alkaline regions. There will be no problems if your device can be calibrated at three or more points. In this case, the order of the calibration is not important, as the pH meter monitors it on its own.

Inexpensive models of pH meters (HI8314, Piccolo, Checker) have two screws for calibration: one for adjusting the isoelectric (reference) point (pH7), the other for adjusting the slope (pH4 / 10). Very often they are confused when using, and a situation arises when the relative position of the screws does not allow calibration. In this case, before carrying out the calibration, set both screws to the middle position (1/2 turn for Piccolo and 15-16 turns for other models from the end position).

The most advanced models of pH meters have so-called. GLP support, which, in addition to the date of the last calibration, allows you to assess the state of the electrode based on the data on the ratio of the slope of the calibration curve to the theoretical value (59.16 at 25C) in%. If the instrument does not have GLP support, but there is a mV measurement mode, the slope can be calculated independently by measuring the mV value in the pH = 7 and pH = 4 buffer.

For example:

pH7 = -10 mV
pH4 = +150 mV
slope = 150 - (-10) /59.2x3 = 90.1%
95 - 102% - electrode in working condition,
92 - 95% - the electrode needs cleaning,
less than 92% - it is necessary to change the electrolyte or replace the electrode.

Temperature compensation problem, automatic temperature compensation

The problem of compensating for temperature changes is one of the most important and most difficult to solve in pH metering. The measurement error occurs for three reasons: Temperature is included in the Nernst equation; The equilibrium concentrations of hydrogen ions in the buffer and samples vary with temperature; The characteristics of a pH electrode are temperature dependent. 1. According to the Nernst equation, the theoretical slope of the calibration curve changes with temperature. If the device does not take into account this change, then an error on average equal to 0.003pH for each degree Celsius and each pH unit from the isopotential point is added to the measurement error.

For example: the device is calibrated against the pH = 7 buffer at a temperature of 25C.
Sample with pH = 5 at 20C, error = 0.003 x 5 x 2 = 0.03
Sample with pH = 2.5 at 2C, error = 0.003 x 23 x 4.5 = 0.31
Sample with pH = 12 at 80C, error = 0.003 x 55 x 5 = 0.82

It is very easy to compensate for a change in the slope of the calibration line, which is why almost any modern pH meter, with the exception of the simplest ones, does it. This is what is called “automatic thermal compensation” in brochures and specifications (automatic thermal compensation, ATC, ATC). But none of the devices allows one to take into account the following two components of the error.2. A much more difficult task is to compensate for changes in the equilibrium concentrations of hydrogen ions in samples with a change in temperature. The problem is that without knowing the exact chemical composition of the sample, it is impossible to predict the nature of these changes. There is only a general rule that the pH of neutral and alkaline solutions depends more strongly on temperature changes than the pH of acidic solutions. When the temperature changes by 25-30 degrees, the pH can change by 0.5 - 1 unit. Conventional general laboratory pH meters do not take into account this factor in any way, and it is impossible to take it into account, since solutions are very different. Buffer solutions are no exception:

temperature	pH value

What you need to know about thermal compensation

1. Automatic temperature compensation in pH-metry means only taking into account the temperature included in the Nernst equation.

2. If you want to know the exact pH of a sample at 25C, the only real way out is to measure it at 25C.

3. In addition to the above reasons, the temperature affects both the electrode body itself and the electrolyte in it. All this has a noticeable effect on the pH value. Almost none of the manufacturers take this into account. The exception is Orion, which developed the LogR technology. Its essence lies in the fact that the resistance (R) of the sensitive part of the pH electrode is inversely proportional to the temperature: LogR = 1 / T In addition to taking into account the characteristics of the electrode that change with temperature, this allows, in principle, to abandon the parallel measurement of the temperature, replacing the temperature in the Nernst equation with the inverse logarithm of the electrode resistance. Unfortunately, due to the low accuracy of temperature measurement, this technology has not become widespread.