All you need to know the newcomer about collecting pocket watches. Collecting watches. Where to begin? Where to start collecting wrist mechanical clock

When the wrist watch is becoming more than the amount of technical characteristics; When their value in the owner's eyes exceeds their nominal value; When the pleasure of possession of hours is more important than the fact of their immediate use, then the person becomes a collector.

Men's mechanical wrist watches Union Glashütte / SA. Viro Date D0114071603101

It happens, the collection begins to form a spontaneously, on the occasion, its first copies are bought as needed or obtained as a gift. But regardless of the number of hours already available, a collector man becomes when he starts consciously and in advance to plan the next purchase, determined with the main thing - which specifically the models will be the subject of his interest.

Sometimes the point of reference, the day of the awakening of the collector vein can be considered the moment when a person understands - "the following hours exactly will take the mechanics." This means that it was interested in his watch with its essence, and not just like a accessory or decoration. Collecting them, of course, you can also exciting, but this is a slightly different story.

If the desire to become a collector has already appeared, and the understanding, which way to go, not yet, you can choose one of the three main options.

Women's Swiss Wrist Watch Tag Heuer Aquaracer Way1313.ba0915

Different cases

The first steps in collecting is easy - a good start will be several different hours for different cases. This is the easiest, understandable and practical approach. The industry creates a wrist watch for both different operating conditions and for different variants of the dress code. "Suit", sports, casual for every day, Aviators, Diving hours, Smart Watch and so on. Have a suitable clock for any situation - a completely decent goal.

Men's Swiss Mechanical Wrist Watch Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Double RetroGrade MP6578-SS001-131-1

Thematic collection

The concept of "theme" here can be interpreted in different ways and first of all it depends on the hobbies and preferences of a person. An interesting collection can be formed from the clock with different materials from simple to exotic (steel, titanium, marble, wood, ceramics, precious metals, meteorites, etc.), copies dedicated to the heroes in any area (musicians, athletes, etc. d.), "Space", "racing" and "artistic" models, watches in the style of militaries, jewelry, interesting and unusual skeletons and so on. Someone hunts at rare hours of different eras, someone tries to collect all outstanding copies with the tourbillon, someone became a fan of the watch master and wants to collect all its author products.

Devotion to Mark

Bulk absolutely all wrist watch of your favorite brand, most likely does not make sense (does not justify costs and simply uninteresting), but be proud of the possession of all limited models, rare or issued at a certain period, for example, to the Second World War, is nice and honorable.

Buyers such hours are quite quickly dating each other, and often with representatives of the brand, and enjoy not only their collection, but also with communication with people close in spirit.

Women's Swiss Wristwatch Maurice Lacroix Eliros Date EL1094-SS002-410-1

Value and durability

In collecting, the cost is not a decisive factor, the quality is more important. If, in the event of some force majeure and emergency, you can still buy cheap Chinese clocks, then for the collection it is absolutely meaningless.

Men's Swiss Mechanical Wrist Watch Frederique Constant Runabout Automatic FC-303RMS6B6

Collectibles - lesson, if not for life, for many years exactly. It makes sense to buy a wonderful clock - not necessarily expensive and luxury, stamps, being confident as materials and a mechanism, receiving a guarantee certificate and having the opportunity to contact an authorized service center.

At the same time, a collector can be with a practically any budget. Many brands today create interesting models for quite affordable price. The value of the collection is determined by the number and variety of models, their rarity, degree of safety (if we are talking about old hours) of the hull and mechanism. The cost of a good collection often exceeds the cumulative price of its copies, and she herself becomes family treasure.

Some watches at some point are starting to be interested in vintage clock. Often - pocket clocks, because they are "older" than wrist hours.

There are quite a few reasons for this, as they say, everyone is its own, and in general, the choice is a matter of life. But you can select several. The first is interest in antiques and history. Many hours of watch lovers are much more interesting to consider the product with a 100-year history, which "survived" the first world world, the revolution of 1917, the Great Patriotic and other important historical milestones than the quartz craft in the standard building.

The second is an old pocket watch allow you to actively build up a collection without making significant investments. Unless, of course, we are talking about available and simple models. Someone will be much more interesting to "collect" Swiss watches, and, famous brands, such as Omega, Zenith and Chopard, rather than buy another faceless magazine - for the same amount.

Zenith pocket watch (1917). Price category - up to 300 euros
Omega pocket watch (1926). Price category up to 300 euros
Pocket watch L.U. Chopard (1890). Price category - up to 300 euros

The third - some just like the style inherent in the old o'clock. All these arrows, engraving and so on - this is practically no in modern clock, if you do not take into account the premium class.

And also collecting old hours is an investment. Such hours at least do not get cheaper. Many grow in price. Unlike almost any modern new hours (films removed, once it was minus 10%).

Of course, collecting old hours is not so simple. Watches require special care, cleaning-lubrication, often - recovery, glass replacement, arrows and much more. The clocks that go a day or more are relative rarity, so they will often start. And not to the end. Sellers for evil intent or ignorance can slip out of frank junk, "cutlet" (hours collected from different residues of spare parts) or even Novodel. Everything happens. But, if you do everything right and do not rush, then the vintage clock will please you.

Some hours at auctions are sold in the form "go for a few minutes." It usually means that someone tried to revive them with the help of oil, but overflow it. Treatment again - cleaning. But if you are not a master of all hands, then cleaning will cost more than buying at once good hours. Especially in the case of cheap mass hours of times of the Second World War. They cost 30-70 euros. Therefore, if you are not a master of mechanisms, then take normally working hours right away.

You can independently make the following operations: wipe the watch housing velvet cloth (you can with a clock polyrolla) and (this is an advanced level) clean the case of the clock using a special paste or just toothpaste (pre-pulling the mechanism). Cleaning you will remove the raid from the housing, a patina, sometimes - the smallest scratch. Large scratches will require special tools and skills. Replacing the glass - the procedure is simple (for the wizard) and relatively inexpensive. But the dial is the face of the clock. If he is with shortcomings, then they can be eliminated, but it is painstaking and notable work. Therefore, again, it is better to immediately choose a clock with well-preserved dials. "Pautinka" on a tide - a sign is not very good if it is very noticeable, then this dial will be under replacement.

Separate theme - arrows. Often they are not the original. Here, a comparison with other hours of the same company can be helped here or simply observation: it takes a minute fission arrow on the dial. If not, then the arrows are definitely not the original. The glass is also often changed, especially in the oldest hours, where it was originally ordinary glass (plastic glasses invented in the mid-20s of the 20th century). In general, there are a lot of nuances.

All old pocket watches can be divided into 2 large groups. Of course, such a separation is suitable only for residents of the former USSR. So, this is: Soviet and foreign watches. The first group is all kinds of lightning, winter and other hours of Soviet production, which cost very moderately, and the joy gives quite a lot. Moreover, for a beginner. As they say, buy yourself a lightning and think if you need all this at all? Of course, all hours are divided by time periods, the same model can cost differently depending on the year of production, but later.

The second group is the Western Watch. Swiss, English, French, American and German. They also use several time periods. These will be inexpensive massive simple clocks (in the overwhelming majority of cases, hours with a function of hours, minutes and seconds, that is, 3-arroders in the housings of silver maximum).

Well, in a separate subgroup, the pre-revolutionary Russian brands like Pavel Bure and Kalashnikov can be distinguished. This watch was collected from European components, but in Russia, so that they occupy an intermediate position.

Pocket watch Pavel Bure, the beginning of the 20th century. Price category - up to 300 euros

European clocks in the available category are 2 types: with the crown and with the key key (key). Prices for keywords, with other things being equal, often below, though, it would seem, it is more "vintage" view of the clock. The reason is that they are very expensive to repair, the repair can cost more than the purchase of the same hours in good condition. Therefore, it is better to immediately take high-quality clock with a clockwork key.

And a few words about prices. Of course, everything is with a high degree of convention. Prices vary very much. The same clock on the flea market, in an antique store, on eBay or wizard purchased from the masters can cost completely different money. This is a landmark just for the reader to understand how much in principle it can cost. Since now with a course of ruble, the situation is very unstable, you will have to indicate the price in US dollars.

The usual Soviet zipper of the 70-80s in excellent condition will cost about $ 20-30 and higher. According to Europeans - for $ 200-250 you can buy something like a simple Zenith 20-30s in good condition. Pavel's clock, produced until 1917, in average condition will cost about the same amount: the whole thing in limited competition, in the West such clock is not enough.

Where to buy? Antique shops, flea markets, Internet auctions (specialized and global like eBay, as well as Russian), Western online shopping. Everywhere there are its pros and cons.
We will talk more about concrete hours in the following publications. And moreover, we will have the corresponding section of pocket watches.

In contact with

The art of manufacturing hours in any era was considered the prerogative of the best masters of his case. The names of famous workshops are known to almost everyone who is focused on time not only through the sun and the stars. Some copies recognized by these masterpieces are a brilliant and harmonious combination of accurate mechanics and jewelry. The clock was designed and manufactured individually, under the order, the masters practiced exceptionally manual, but at the same time surprisingly accurate assembly, guaranteed durability.

If your "vintage watches" are still going, and you prefer to learn the exact time of the smartphone, then you can think about how the most quickly and profitably get rid of the definitely chic and stylish, but, alas, completely useless and unnecessary things you. Purchase of ancient clock is carried out after to and check with their wizard watchmaker, the seller in this case does not carry any costs for their verification. Purchase of antique watches is a kind of standard of success in the collectors' environment, but not every experienced watchmaker may not even appreciate the antique clock, only the master according to the old mechanisms can be used. Vintage watches have always enjoyed great demand at auctions and in the market of antique things. Rarity watches made in famous workshops serve a very long time, and with careful handling, the time of staying on the land of several generations is counted without significant wear and damage.

What hours are considered antique?

• • • Exclusive copies made manually. In this case, the clockmark is also taken into account. Sell \u200b\u200brare watches falling under this category, it is possible to quickly and profitably after.
    • Vintage clock in good condition. Not only the appearance and overall safety, but also the wear of the mechanism, as well as the accuracy of the course is estimated. Sell \u200b\u200bantique watches dated XIX century and older, now can be very expensive, but only after more thorough. However, the approximate cost can be found in photos with.
    • Collectible clocks who have committed a revolution, or any other coming coup in time. The clock is not a bike, they can be invented forever. The temples, counting minutes, with the help of the Sun and the Moon, became complicated by the mechanisms, evolved cuckoo. Some of the preserved hours were the first in their category - here they are present to the real value for collectors. Sell \u200b\u200bclocks can now be quickly and expensive, provided good safety and authenticity.
    • Registered, premium and other cult watches associated with any historical or cultural events, famous owners and watchmakers. Here everything is clear - and among the watches there are real "stars", the participants of the iconic events, shot in famous films and decorated wrists (not necessary) well-known people. Interestingly, not only professional collectors hunt for hours, but the most devoted fans of actors, musicians, football players and politicians seeking to get a part of the idol in their full property.

How and where to rate the vintage clock?

Rolex watches, Armani jeans and Gucci glasses can afford any Belarusian. Numerous fakes that sellers are preferred to be decent to call with replicas - the logical continuation of many parties to our life: not to be, but seem. Our today's hero Sergei tells about his collection and sincerely believes that wearing fake clock - I don't even respect yourself.

Currently, Sergey, he also forumchanin Farmer +, works by one of the leaders of a large company. His clock collection numbers 70-80 copies. By virtue of the specifics, she is not cheap, of course, but also there are no copies of the transient prices in it.

"I got the first hours in the eighties when I studied at the Leningrad Institute." It was a flight. Then the father gave me the fashionable clock "Electronics" from the "Publicity and Perestroika" collection. Until now, they take a worthy place in the collection. Recently offered interesting exchange options.

At that time, the clock was every man. Other gadgets have not yet invented, and it was somehow necessary to monitor the time. SWISS MADE was then available to units. The more popular focus and coolness was Japanese orient.

- 20 years ago I spent a lot of time at work in the UAE. Somehow stood, I remember before the showcase of the time boutique and dreamed of Tissot, - Remembers Sergey.

But Tissot in his life did not happen. Returning to Belarus, Sergey bought Casio. And then, as a person who was passionate, became infected with the very "hour disease".

- When one desire appeared - to deal with the clock, another was missing - to flee along with the crowd and mass market.

Later, ORIENT appeared from our hero. Well, the first "serious" clocks were Titoni Cosmoking.

- Good Swiss manufacturer. I just liked you, and now I understand, for what. This Homage is a clock made based on Rolex. Not copying, but stylization. They cost me with a discount in the area of \u200b\u200b$ 850. I was sure that I would not have more expensive hours.

But interest did not fade. At some point, I wanted to collect hours from different countries in geographic sign. Now I understand that this idea is specifically contrived. The design assortment is huge, engineering is not at all. Hourly mechanisms are made in Switzerland, Japan, China, India, Russia. No matter how paradoxically, Belarus can be included in this series. "Luch" still remains actually manufactura, because it can produce everything himself. Makes little, but can.

Most of the clock today is produced in China - if not mechanisms, then their components, housings, arrows, dials. The problem touched even the famous SWISS MADE mark. Until recently, it could be set if the mechanism and at least 50% of the details were made in Switzerland. But still manufacturers walked on tricks. From January 1 of this year, the share of local production increased to 60%. Some consider this measure insufficient. For example, the manufacturer H. Moser & Cie with the slogan "No" is done in Switzerland ", yes" Swissness "" ("No to Swiss Made, Yes to Swissness") removed the stamps of Swiss Made from his clock. Even earlier, Patek Philippe went to this step, which believed that his own brand was already more value.

In general, the geographical collection is such a good self-deception.

One of the parts of the Sergey collection is Soviet vintage.

- I give tribute to the period. In the sixties and seventies, the Soviet Chaspro competed with Swiss.

"Commander" is one of the most famous and authoritative hours of the Soviet period.

The curve and oblique "glory". Asymmetry is not a marriage, but a successful designer solution.

- One of the best designs is a thin "beam" on the mechanism 2209. This watch is still respected in the world. Some of them I bought, oddly enough, on eBay.

Here is this watch "Glory" I am very expensive: the same was my grandfather. Very harmonious design. I specifically searched for such many times and eventually found them in Hungary.

You may still see ad with the proposal to buy the Watch of the USSR era. It is unlikely that retro connoisseurs are rather ordinary pieces of precious metals: the clock was covered with gilding.

- profitably sell? Of course, some value they certainly have. You can get a few dozen dollars, for a rare model - a few hundred, but it is much less likely. It is more expensive that such - these are new old "glory", New Old Stock, that is, never used. Such collectors are valued more expensive than "favor".

Some models and mechanisms have successfully survived the country. Here are interesting Russian mechanical clocks with alarm clock. Inside the mechanism of "Flight", produced back in the eighties. The alarm clock works in vibrorem for a few seconds.

- During the World Hockey Championship, I bought a beam. All partner rights IIhF belong to Tissot, so this is an unofficial version. But still they are frankly hockey: hockey player, dividing the watch scale for three periods. Inside - Japanese Miyota Mechanism. As a result, it turned out a good model. I constantly advise my overseas colleagues at the American Watch Forum, where it can be bought. In general, "beam", "Vostok", "Flight", like other Soviet brands, are well known in the American watch environment.

- We have a good rule on the forum branch: if a person is looking for advice, he needs to help. And the question is as a rule, as a rule, you need a clock for every day from a respected manufacturer, not a slaughtered brand, with a highlight for 400-600 rubles. I recommend with such a budget to consider Japanese hours, - tells Sergey and shows that came from Citizen Eco-Drive Super Titanium on his hand. - This is one of my favorite models, and approximately this I will advise half of those interested in newcomers. In it, instead of the battery (I appreciate the mechanics, but I am aware that many lovers are quite quartz) is the battery, which is charged from the light. It will last up to 10 years. Technology is called Eco-Drive. SEIKO has a similar energy-saving technology called Kinetic - the battery is charging from movement. In this case, such hours are relatively available and made of very pleasant and light alloy.

Seth (this regularly used part of the collection) Sergey consists of a dozen models.

- Something is chosen for the mood, something - according to the rules of good tone. For example, it is customary to wear a three-strand of a small diameter without complications. For example, this is. Interesting hours, although many can cause doubt the manufacturer - Indian HMT.

- James Bond put on Omega suit, whose size is not at all small ...

- Dmitry Medvedev puts on a Casio G-Shock jacket. This is normal. Style borders are blurred. I'm talking about canonial rules. For example, Alexander Lukashenko's watch - Patek Philippe Calatrava - fall into classic style.

There is an intermediate version between the classics and Casual. I call such a "costume diver" - this is a classic model plus some functions. For example, Eterna Kontiki. This cult model is devoted to the famous tour of the Tour Heyerdal on the raft of Con-Tika in 1947. She survived several reprints, but still popular, including on our forum. However, if you find anyone who wanted to call the model with a pure causal, I will not argue.

Daily hours are suitable for 90% of situations and outputs.

Along with large companies there are microbrends. Watch enthusiasts gave the ideas, collect money on crowdfunding, buy mechanisms, order builds and details. By the analogy, such can be called crafting clock. First, the production is small, but over time it can turn into a large company. Such a way, for example, was the British Christopher Ward.

- Canadian company Cobra de Calibre is one of these microbrends. Their watches do not have a crazy authority in the watch world, but have a memorable design and interesting functionality: rotating inner bezel, which allows you to measure time intervals. The result - the entire circulation of these hours is already sold out, they started a real hunt for specialized hourly forums.

- Wristwatch today is not a source of information. This is an accessory and enjoyment of engineering genius. I can't at first glance to determine the nature of the interlocutor, but his watches will help me. For example, you are two people: one with Tissot, the other with Hamilton. It is about the same on the cost of brands, but only the second is given the desire to find their interest in the topic, individuality.

All stories about women-hunters who can determine the state of a man in the club on his clock, is journalistic fiction. Of course, there are experts, but most of them are not. In addition, there is a huge number of replicas that are difficult to distinguish from the original even from the second look. And there are those who do not define without opening. The level of fakes is high, although it usually comes to us that it does not withstand any criticism.

From my point of view, the replica is always and in all bad. She may not recognize passersby, but you know the truth yourself. What for? It is dishonest and even dishonest towards yourself. It is better to prefer a good SEIKO or honest "beam".

Collecting the clock is not as easy as it seems at first glance. It is not enough to just buy all the models that you like. And the most difficult thing in this business is to start. It is necessary to have a clear idea what you want to see your collection and what you need it. Before purchasing the first hours it is necessary to think about the many nuances, including where and how you will buy them and what amount are willing to spend.

In order for you to leave the idea to get your own collection, faced with the earliest difficulty, we asked for help from those whom we can consider experts in this matter: Deputy Editor-in-Chief of the British GQ Bill Prince, Observer of Robin Kvitinbank and at the GQ Symmon Review Editor Berthon.

1. Spend a study

"It needs to speak, although many of this fact seems obvious. Buy the clock is also not easy, like a good wine or vintage car. There is no one hundred percent of a reliable system in this matter. There is always a risk to face fraudsters and buy a fake. So you need to be confident in the provider who you get the clock and not hope that you will be able to make a good deal with some dealer. This is utopia, "Bill Prince advises.

2. Decide with the budget

"The amount you are willing to spend on the clock plays an important role. I would not advise immediately buy a very expensive watch. After all, you do not want to grab the head and think "Why did I bought them?". And besides, the price should not be a factor affecting the clock or not, "Simon de Burton.

3. Adhere to the classics

"This is especially important if you decide to spend a whole condition for hours. Do not choose too bold body design and bright colors. Better to trust the generally accepted brands with a huge history that have excellent classic models. For example, Rolex Oyster Perpetual, Tag Heuer Carrera or Omega Speedmaster. But if you are irreconcilable in your desire to choose something unusual, take a look at the limited collections of these brands, "Robin Kvitinbank.

"The obvious choice in this case becomes Rolex. This is the most reliable investment. They are not just the most popular watch in the world. Moreover, you can always resell them, "Simon de Burton.

4. Do not choose bizarre models

"Do not take too catchy or strange clock. Tag Heuer Autavia and Rolex submariner are popular because of its simple design. By the end of the day you will be tired of looking at the fancy dial, on which you can hardly disassemble what time it is possible. In addition, the fashion for unusual models is short-lived, and their value is insignificant compared to the classic, "Simon de Burton.

5. Carefully with vintage models

"Once again think before buying vintage clock. You must be 100 percent sure that the supplier who purchases them. The risk stumble upon the fake is huge, especially for the models of Cosmograph Daytona and Cosmograph Zenith. You can lose a lot of money by contacting a fraudster, or even the clock yourself. After all, if they were stolen, they can withdraw ", - Simon de Burton.

6. Do not rush

"Such a purchase should be thoughtful. Do not hurry yourself in search of perfect hours. Sometimes it may take several years. But even better, during this time your style and idea of \u200b\u200bthe clock that you need are finally formed. In addition, if you want the same model throughout the time of searches, you made the right choice, "Robin Kvitinbank.

7. Forget about brands sponsored by Kickstarter

"It is not worth buying a watch from brands that finance Kickstarter, as these companies can go bankrupt and stop exist at any time. Yes, among them there are well-known and popular brands, but when it comes to buying hours, reliability is more important, "Simon de Burton.

8. Do not forget about the company times of quartz crisis

"Listful old watch catalogs, you will repeat on brands that have never heard. Such companies have become victims of a quartz crisis, despite a reliable history. Unfortunately, many of them were never revived. But this does not mean that you do not need to look close to them. For example, Universal make amazing hours with chronograph and calendar. And they recruit popularity again, "Simon de Burton.

9. Find a reliable supplier

"If you make a purchase in some of the Swiss Bucherer, you can be sure of the quality of your clock. But for this you have to pay a rather big money. Therefore, you can look at independent brands in P2 & Cooper. And high-quality vintage models are often exhibited at the auctions of Fellowes and Watches of Knightsbridge, "Simon de Burton.

10. Beware of eBay

"By buying hours on eBay, you can't even look at them before payment. Therefore, you should not think about such transactions. And always remember the original packaging and genuine documents, if you buy a clock from the previous owner, "Simon de Burton.

11. Take a friend

"If you are fully covered by the idea of \u200b\u200bbuying your first hours, then, most likely, for them, you are ready to view all sites and flying polim. And in order not to go crazy and not to get lost in a variety, it is better to have a side of a friend-partner or at least an adviser who can make it easier at any time, "Bill Prince.

12. Take into account the parameters

"This is especially true of online shopping, because you cannot try on the clock. Once I purchased Omega Chronostop just because I liked they, but I did not pay attention to the fact that the diameter of the dial was very small, and the strap is very thin. As a result, the clock looked not as I would like, on my wide wrist, "Robin Kvitinbank.

13. Choose what you liked

"When buying hours it is better to take into account previous tips. But ultimately you need to choose what you like. Most collections started from the watches in which their owner felt confident and comfortable, "Robin Kvitinbank.

14. How do you want to remember

"This question may seem crazy, but what would you like to remember you? I have Rolex my grandfather, and I hope to convey them and all the hours to my children, and someday and grandchildren. And I would really like them to remind them as I was. The clock can be called a reflection of the individuality of the person and its values. They are as important for us, like rings for women, "Robin Kvitinbank.

Starting collection of collector

Now you know what is worth considering before buying the first hours for your collection. But to be sure to be sure that you understood everything right, Simon de Burton picked up several models from which you should start.

1

A Classic Rolex

"I mean Rolex GMT-Master or Submariner. These are universal models that will always be popular, so you can resell them. True, be prepared that they will not buy them too quickly. "

GMT-Master II, Rolex, £ 7150 on Rolex.com

2

Something from an independent brand

"For example, from F.P. Journe - Chronomètre Souverain or Centigraphe CHRONOGRAPH. Any watches of one of these brands you like will become very good purchase. "

Chronomètre Souverain Calibre 1304, F.P. Journe, Poa on FPJOURNE.com

3

Classic Omega.

"And although this is a very popular brand, it can find several cool and not very promoted models, in particular Speedmaster or Seamaster. And they also have a beautiful limited ruler released to the 50th anniversary of the Master collection. It is accurate to look at it. "

Seamaster Co-Axial Master Chronometer, Omega, £ 6000 on beaverbrooks.co.uk

4

Something from the ROGER W SMITH collection

"These watches are very expensive and very prestigious. The brand creates only ten o'clock a year, and their waiting list is made six years ahead. So if you make a deposit and in the queue now, then your order will be ready just by the time you have time to accumulate. "

Series 1, Roger W Smith, Poa on rwsmithwatches.co.uk

5

Calatrava Patek Philippe.

"If you decide to assemble your own clock collection, then someday you will definitely want to replenish it with this model."