Varieties of natural patina on coins. Signs and Methods of Patina on Copper Coins Patina on Copper Coins

Everyone knows that collecting is quite a meticulous job. Absolutely every numismatist can look for a coin he needs in a suitable condition for weeks, but unfortunately, a small number of old coins are in a satisfactory condition.

And therefore, often you have to buy coins that do not meet your expectations a little. Because of this problem, the community of numismatists has found several methods for giving copper coins the desired look.

When and why is it necessary to patinate copper coins

There are several reasons why coin collectors patinate coins:

1. The coin was purchased or found in poor condition. For example, now there are a lot of copper kopecks on the market that were dug out with a metal detector. In this case, foci of corrosion are formed on the "copper", which must be eliminated. There are cases where a find already has a beautiful patina, but this is rather an exception. It depends a lot on the soil and the place where it was found.
2. The second reason for the manipulation is the ignorance of the previous owners of the value of the preserved patina. More often than not, it is rubbed off in an attempt to add shine. Or it is thrown into acid, after which its color turns yellow-orange.
3. Increase in value. There is no doubt that a copper coin with a brown patina will interest the buyer more than an identical copy covered with green spots. At first glance, their safety is the same, but people are ready to overpay a little for the appearance.

Patinating is the artificial aging of objects. It is carried out by a chemical reaction, during which a film or plaque is formed.

Today we will tell you in detail about the best methods and instructions for applying patina. Do not think that this is a simple exercise, in the process you need to observe the proportions of substances, otherwise you can permanently lose a rare coin.

Recipes for patinating copper coins at home

We will give you the best recipes for self-patination of coins. If you want to achieve a decent result, then do not be lazy to prepare the material in advance.

Copper penny of the Russian Empire in need of cleaning

These words mean cleaning from oxides and various metal build-ups.

We advise you to start with this procedure on not expensive copies in order to practice a little. Do not be upset if something did not work out for you. It is difficult to achieve the desired result the first time. All comes with experience.

Sulfuric ointment

Patinating with sulfuric ointment is not the best option for a collector because it will rub off easily even with a sponge.

The color, too, cannot be called natural, it will give off a gray tint.

The technology is quite simple and is carried out in three stages:

• Apply sulfuric ointment to a coin immersed in warm water,
• Wait until she gets the desired color.
• Wash off any remaining ointment with soapy water.

Warm water is required for the reaction to proceed slowly. This will help you more accurately select the color tone.

The use of sulfuric ointment on the example of a copper cent 2009

The only advantage of using sulfuric ointment is the simplicity and speed of patina appearance.

Manganese and copper sulfate

If you want the coin to be covered with a strong uniform patina, then the method with the use of manganese and copper sulfate is best suited. It will give the most natural color to the product. The instructions for preparing the solution are not complicated.

An illustrative example of using a solution of manganese and vitriol

In total, you need 3-4 grams of manganese, 10 grams of copper sulfate and half a liter of water heated to 90 degrees Celsius. When patinating, do not forget to turn the coin over, otherwise the sides will be different in color.

Try to maintain the proportions, otherwise you may not only not improve, but also permanently lose the relief.

Also, be careful to maintain the temperature, so do not forget to warm the solution from time to time. There is no exact time frame for the stay of the coin in the solution, you just need to wait until the patina evenly lays down.

Conclusion

After reading our article, you can independently give a beautiful antique look to copper coins.

The main thing is not to be afraid to experiment and try each of the methods described above.

So you can compare the results yourself. Remember that the described methods are only suitable for copper coins, for other alloys, accordingly, different solutions are needed.

Video: Patination or Aging of Copper Coins

Coin patination (artificial aging) is used to give the coin an age-appropriate appearance. Patination may be required after cleaning the coin, when the native patina is damaged or completely destroyed, as well as to give the coin a more aesthetic appearance.

Depending on the material of the coin, there are quite a few methods of applying patina to the coin. Below are the most common ones.

Patination of copper coins with sulfur ointment

To demonstrate the various methods of patina application, modern 1 US cent coins will be used. This coin is minted from copper, like many old coins. And most importantly, on several completely identical coins, you can try different methods of patination and compare the result.

Sulfuric ointment is applied to the coin and literally within a few seconds it darkens. After treatment with sulfuric ointment, its remains must be washed off with soapy water. The patina obtained from the sulfuric ointment has a rather rich black color. The resulting patina is not strong enough and if the coin is rubbed with felt it is erased, it should be used to give a more embossed and contrasting appearance to the coin.

Patination of copper coins with ammonia vapor

In order to put a patina on a coin using ammonia, place the coin for 10-30 minutes in a closed container with ammonia vapors, but do not allow the coin to come into contact with liquid. From a technical point of view, everything is simple, but when it comes to implementation, some difficulties can arise.

When preparing materials for this article, 2 coins were hopelessly ditched. To prevent this from happening, you should follow simple recommendations:

• Since ammonia has a strong odor, patination should be done in a closed jar or container.
• The coin must either be hung, fastened to the edge, or put on any object inside the container, but it is not easy to lay, but on a cotton pad, this will allow the coin to be covered with patina evenly on both sides.
• At the bottom of the container, you need to pour a little ammonia (5-10 grams), it is best to do this at the very end after the rest of the preparations and immediately close the lid.
• Under no circumstances should a closed container be heated, this will lead to condensation on the coin and a highly uneven patina.

The vapors of ammonia cover the coin with an even layer of pleasant brown patina in just a few minutes. The coin stops shining and looks very attractive. If the coin is left for several hours, then the patina does not become more saturated, but centers of corrosion begin to appear.

Patination of copper coins with potassium permanganate and copper sulfate

Patination of coins in a solution of copper sulfate and potassium permanganate gives a quick result and a patina of pleasant brown color. A coin or other object must be immersed in a boiling solution for 1-2 minutes.

To prepare the solution, it is best to use distilled water, for one glass of water (200 ml) you need to add 1 gram of potassium permanganate and 1 gram of copper sulphate, mix the solution thoroughly and put it on the stove in a paste that is not a pity - after patinating the coins, you will most likely not be able to wash the container ...

The longer the time the coin is in the solution, the darker the patina can be obtained - at 10 minutes the patina becomes almost black. The penny of 1855 from the example spent about 1 minute in a boiling solution. There is also an image of the coin before cleaning it with Trilon-B.

Patination of silver coins with sulfur ointment

Silver coins do not need patina as much as copper coins, but often after cleaning silver coins sparkle with whiteness and require patina to give an older appearance.

To apply patina on a silver coin with sulfuric ointment, practically the same operations are carried out as on a copper coin, but there are some differences. First, the coin should be cleaned in ammonia or citric acid so that the surface is clean and there are no uneven areas. Next, a sulfuric ointment is applied to the coin, applied in an even thick layer. Since silver is much less reactive than copper, the patina develops much more slowly. To speed up the application of patina, the coin must be heated; at home, it is best to put the coin on a cotton pad or soft cotton cloth and heat it with a hair dryer. In 1-2 minutes, the silver coin completely darkens. After that, the coin must be washed with soap to remove the remnants of the ointment.

After applying the patina, the coin was rubbed with felt so that the patina on the protruding parts of the coin was slightly erased and the relief was more clearly visible. For this coin, such an operation gives a more advantageous appearance, but for heavily worn coins it allows you to raise the relief and sometimes distinguish details that were not noticeable before.

Egg patination of silver coins

This is the easiest way to patina, no reagents are needed at all, in addition, the process is not quick and there is always an opportunity to stop at the desired degree of patina.

For patination with an egg, you will need to hard-boil one chicken egg, when the egg cools down to a temperature slightly above room temperature, it must be cleaned and put in a container (ordinary plastic one with a lid), then put a silver coin or several in the container and close the lid. It is better not to use a hot egg, as it is not convenient to clean it and steam comes from a hot one and condensation may form on the coin, which will lead to an uneven patina. It is worth noting that it is advisable to first clean the coin with ammonia or citric acid so that the surface is completely clean and the patina lies flat.

These 5 marks were patinated with an egg for five hours in a closed container, during patination the coin was turned over several times. A coin patinated with an egg produces a very specific patina, the so-called rainbow patina, it is very durable and shimmers in different colors depending on the viewing angle.

Electrolysis of bronze / brass coins

In most cases, bronze or brass coins do not need additional patina, this is due to the fact that they naturally quickly become covered with a strong protective oxide film and are perfectly preserved in this form.

But sometimes, during the cleaning process or during long storage in the ground or in improper conditions, the coins become covered with uneven spots with a patina of different colors. In other words, when a brass coin does not look pretty in good relief, you can try to cover it with a patina using electrolysis.

These five kopecks are a dug coin, in the ground over the decades, oxides of uneven color have formed on it. Electrolysis was used to give it a uniform patina. A solution of soda was used as an electrolyte, a current source was a charger for a car battery (current 2 A), a coin was attached to "-", a sacrificial coin was attached to "+" (about the same nickle, it is important that the metal is the same the same as the processed coin). Patina application time - 2 minutes. After electrolysis, the coin was ground in a soda gruel.

About 2600 and a half years ago, the first coins began to appear. Their material, variety and value have changed dramatically since then. Today, any rare coin gives the impression of something unique, and among them there are their own rare specimens.

For example, coins used in circulation on one island, which by weight reached five tons. These works of numismatics were made in the form of a plate. Such an amazing form of coins had a lot of dignity. The number of stones around the hut spoke about how rich the inhabitant of the island was, as well as an obvious advantage - the weight of the coin, because it was not possible to take it away.

In China, the role of monetary calculations was assigned to metal plates weighing up to 4 kg. The number of coins on them reached hundreds. It was easy to count, but it was impossible to lose a coin. Two parts made up the Australian dollar: the part that was in the center was removed. Each part of the dollar had its own denomination.

Interesting
The object of attention for collectors is not only old coins, investment and commemorative coins deservedly take their place among the unique coins.

The high price tag makes many of them a good economic investment. The greatest influence on the price of collectible items today is exerted by the technology of the production itself, style, aesthetic value and circulation of the units produced.

Coins are made from a variety of metals and take on a variety of shapes. Their weight can reach several kilograms, and the range of colors knows no boundaries.

Royal coins

The tradition of producing coins with the image of the tsar in Russia was introduced by Peter l. His profile was depicted on large coins. This law was abolished by the emperor Paul l. It is known that he did not have an attractive appearance. He introduced a ban on the image of his face on money and this tradition was forgotten for almost a hundred years.

Alexander lll became emperor in 1881, issuing coins with the head of state again became a hot topic. But his face was allowed to be depicted only on money, with a large denomination. Because it was not allowed that significant money fell into the hands of the poor.

Nicholas II completely renewed this tradition during his reign. The coronation ruble was issued in 1896. This coin has been passed down as a relic for generations. The cost of these numismatic items is about 24 thousand rubles, and if the item is in good condition, then the price reaches 114 thousand rubles.

The ruble of 1898 is known for the fact that the relic is made of silver. The issue of the coin was dedicated to the unveiling of the monument to Alexander II. The price is 228 thousand rubles, but the cost of certain copies reaches 685 thousand rubles.

Commemorative ruble of 1912 - the price of such a coin is up to 85 thousand rubles.

The Gangut ruble is the last numismatic memorable relic of the times of tsarist Russia. The price of copies reaches 300 thousand rubles. If the coin is real, then its value may be about 2 million rubles or more.

A rare specimen of gold coins is 10 rubles in 1906. The number of coins that have survived to this day is only 10 units, which is why the price is very high - about 1.4 million rubles.

Coins of the USSR

Of particular value among the coins of the USSR are the coins of 5 kopecks, 10 kopecks and 15 and 20 kopecks of 1931, 1934 and 1958. The price of many copies reaches 100 thousand rubles. On the market, the price of these products tends to grow rapidly. That is why these unique monetary settlements of the times of the USSR are a good way to invest.

The "St. George the Victorious" coin is the first coin of the USSR used for investments. The first circulation was 751 thousand copies. Unfortunately, this numismatic unit has failed in the western market.

Patina on coins

Patina is a film or plaque on copper that forms on its alloys. It is a multi-layer structure, but, as a rule, the top layer of green copper carbonate is considered a patina. There are two types of patina: artificial and natural.

Interesting
It usually takes several months for the natural patina to appear, and the wait is long enough. Then it is customary to use artificial patting.

Copper Coin Patination

1. For this method, you need to use 5 grams of manganese and 20 grams of copper sulfate. Dissolve two elements in 1 liter of water. Then we bring this solution to a temperature of 90 degrees. With sufficient heating of the solution, place coins in it. There is no specific time allotted for holding the coins.

2. The second method is carried out using a substance such as sulfuric ointment. It should be applied to coins and left for 5 minutes. Better to spread the coin under water, as the reaction is almost instantaneous. When a brown color becomes visible, the coin needs to be cleaned and rinsed well with water. This is to prevent the coin from turning black. However, even so, one should not exclude the possibility that it will turn black. To restore the brown tint to the coin, wipe it with a piece of cloth soaked in fat-based liquid.

3. The third method is characterized by the use of sodium hyposulfite. A dry surface of the coin is a prerequisite. It is necessary that she stay in a heated solution of sodium hyposulfite. After the coin is dry, wipe it off with a soft cloth. Thanks to this, the coin becomes bronze in color, and it is not afraid of corrosion.

Patination of silver coins

Patination of silver coins implies the presence of ammonia and ammonia. We put the coin in the freezer compartment for half an hour. We bring the coin to the container with ammonia or ammonia. The coin will begin to acquire a patina of gray color instantly.

As described earlier, the patination of coins depends on the material from which they are made, so you should carefully study and then choose the method of artificial aging that is most suitable for your coin.

As soon as the numismatists do not call the patina, it is the soul of an old coin, and old rust, which spoiled its appearance and "ate" such reliefs so dear to the collector's heart. What is the patina on coins, where does it come from, can it be removed and should it be done? Why does a noble patina appear on some coins, while others never have a noble rust? For those who are just learning the basics of numismatics, all this knowledge will be useful in order to correctly assess the coin in hand and its authenticity, and eliminate the temptation to do something that can turn a valuable rarity into a circle of worthless old metal.

What is patina?

The word "patina" has an Italian origin, in which it has a generalized meaning: the formation of a deposit, an oxide film on any surface of any material under the influence of environmental factors. It can appear on anything, even on a stone. In fact, this is the same as rust, which is subject to iron, the only difference is in the chemical structure, which is due to the chemical composition of the object itself (in this case, metal). If rust appears on iron, patina forms on copper, silver and other non-ferrous metals.

Is patina on coins good or bad?

The question cannot be answered unequivocally. On the one hand, the presence of an oxide film confirms the authenticity of the coin, its age, and even gives a certain charm and translates into the category of antiques. On the other hand, it destroys its surface and spoils its appearance. As a result, the patina can both significantly raise the cost of an individual copy, and devalue it. Hence the conclusion: the patina is good only up to a certain limit, until the process of obvious destruction of the surface of the coin disc and the loss of the reliefs of its pattern began.

"Cabinet" patina

Even proper storage does not provide complete protection against oxidation of the metal surface. However, the difference in the end result can be palpable. If the coin is stored in a hermetically sealed capsule that restricts air access as much as possible and is made of a non-corrosive material, the oxide film will slowly and neatly lay down on its surface. This is exactly the patina that is called noble. In some cases, experts call it a cabinet.

The word “study” in this context does not mean a room, but special cabinets made of lacquered wood with drawers lined with velvet - the so-called muenz cabinets used by numismatists of past centuries. By and large, velvet and wood did not carry the functions of high-quality storage, but served more for the effective presentation of the collection. The plaque with such storage turned out to be beautiful, but rather thick. Hence, the term "cabinet wear" was subsequently formed, applied to specimens that were not in regular circulation, but were not kept in the best possible way.

This term applies to cases where the specimen has been in the ground for a long time, simply in the air, in a humid place or in another extremely aggressive environment. The resulting patina when stored this way is rough, thick and ugly. Moreover, it is no longer a thin film of plaque, but eats into the metal itself, becoming an inseparable part of the coin. If it is cleaned of patina, but it is not smooth and even, depressions will be visible in it and reliefs may become indistinguishable. In the most advanced cases, the metal crystallizes completely, i.e. virtually disappears and the coin disc is one continuous patina.

For patina, dirt is sometimes taken into the grooves of the relief. You can distinguish them by the coverage area. Real age plaque always touches part of the smooth field, and dirt accumulates in the folds of the pattern.

Patina types depending on the alloy

Different metals oxidize in different ways, which means that the type and color of the age plaque that has appeared is different. This is due not only to the parameters and shelf life, but also to the composition of the alloy, including all its impurities. For example, if there is even a tiny fraction of iron in the composition, the patina will have a characteristic reddish tint. It is the impurities that cause the appearance of an oxidizing film on coins made of precious metals.

The patina on silver coins is usually due to the admixture of copper, and gold money disks would not have any traces of oxides at all without the presence of impurities, since gold of the highest standard is usually used for minting, and it is practically not subject to oxidation. However, on gold specimens, dots or minor streaks of a darker color (up to brown) can often be observed, which betrays the presence of copper.

The first sign of patina on silver coins is a slight yellow coating, then it turns crimson, turns blue-green and finally turns dark gray or almost black.

Patina on copper coins

Copper is the leader in oxide film formation. Copper oxide has a color close to black, sometimes it can be lighter brown. The well-known green color of aged copper is formed by its sulfides and sulfates. If loose nodules with a greenish tint appear on the surface, it means that we are dealing with copper chloride, which behaves the worst and in a short time destroys the metal, leaving deep traces after cleaning it ("bronze disease").

In addition, surges have to be dealt with if the coin is artificially aged. And, finally, there is one more type of patina on copper coins, which is called "malachite". It looks noble and beautiful, has an amazing blue-green color and represents the thinnest crystalline layer.

Modern metallic money

As for modern samples, which are based on stainless steel or a copper-nickel compound, their surface is oxidized slowly and weakly, the color of the plaque varies from gray to copper-golden. Aluminum discs lose their shine and acquire a nondescript grayish coating. Brass coins deteriorate very quickly, starting to darken or losing color and becoming almost white after a few months. Good storage can slow down this process in certain cases. If a brass alloy is exposed to chemicals, it takes on a red tint.

Another type of modern coins is steel with electroplated non-ferrous metals. The slightest damage to the coating, almost invisible to the eye, causes a violent oxidation process, as a result of which the entire applied film swells, and the metal under it rusts. It is highly doubtful that such coins will ever be able to acquire a noble appearance in old age.

Classification of the patina of old coins

The different type of oxide film depends not only on the composition of the alloy, but also on the conditions in which the old coin was located and some other subjective factors. In numismatics, there is the following classification.

It is an exquisitely noble plaque formed under conditions of careful maintenance. There is a characteristic transition from almost imperceptible changes to a darker color in the direction from the center to the edge of the coin. Sometimes the dark areas are not located along the outer circumference, but in separate places of the coin field. This aging is considered beautiful and adds value to the old coin.

In this case, the plaque is more heterogeneous in color, the transitions do not have precise localization, but are smooth and do not have sharp shade boundaries. The reason for this uneven aging is the inhomogeneity of the composition due to poor mixing of the alloy. This is not a disadvantage, but rather indicates the authenticity of the coin, minted in conditions far from ideal. About 200 years ago, technology did not yet allow obtaining a perfectly homogeneous metal.

Iridescent patina

This is the name of a homogeneous plaque that changes color depending on the angle of view.

Pantry patina

As the name implies, we are talking about the oxidation of the surface of coins that have been lying in a closed container in the ground for a long time, that is, they have not had direct contact with it. However, the external environment during such storage is still too aggressive for the high-quality preservation of the treasure. Outwardly, it is a thick brown layer that has eaten into the metal. After removing such a deposit, cavities remain on its surface. If the coins are made of silver, then they speak of "horny silver", which looks like bulges due to contact with soil chlorides.

Formed exclusively on copper samples that were stored in sand. Outwardly, it looks like an even beige-yellow bloom.

Artificial patina

The high value of old coins is often the reason for the artificial induction of age signs. This is not always done for the purpose of unjust enrichment. For example, artificial aging is used when creating official copies or after cleaning, the result of which is an unnatural color for the metal or an obscene shine for the age of the coin. In addition, patina is applied in order to visually hide some physical defects as a result of regular walking or improper storage. In any case, artificial "old age" with a certain skill is easy to distinguish from natural, no matter how beautiful the result looks. There are several ways to obtain it.

Tinting

On the scale of professionalism of aiming an artificial patina, this method is at the lowest level and is applicable only for mass production of cheap copies. The first obvious sign of a fake is gloss, which in a genuine case should not be, a thick layer of plaque and its sharp drop in places where the transition to the center should be very smooth. However, it is possible to deceive completely ignorant people with such fakes.

Burning

To give the coin disc the old look, it is heated over an open fire of any type - a gas burner, blowtorch, fire, etc. Another short-sighted technique, since the difference is too obvious.

Chemical methods

They can be different, but they boil down to imitation of conditions that provoke an accelerated aging process. The inventions of entertainers are innumerable, we will give just a few examples:

• A solution of copper sulfate and potassium permanganate based on distilled or simply boiled water, heated below the boiling point. The coin is lowered into it for a short time (a couple of minutes).
• Rubbing with sulfuric ointment, followed by rinsing in a solution of ordinary laundry soap.
• Immersion in any sulfuric solution or in sulfuric acid itself. Even ordinary match sulfur is used. The impact is very strong and fast. But the result is also easily recognizable.

"Folk art"

The same can be said about him as about chemical experiments, with the difference that natural aggressive media are used without the use of active substances. These are all kinds of combinations of temperature effects, humid air, water and even food (as an example, baking a coin in a potato). Sometimes it is possible to get good results, however, well distinguishable from the originals by specialists. But without the proper skill, most often the result is a hopelessly damaged coin.

How to determine if a patina is artificially induced:

• Too sharp transitions from dark to light areas, excessively dark color in hard-to-reach areas of the relief and along the edge of the circumference of the coin field.
• Shine. The true patina is always matte and has no sheen.
• The presence of shades unusual for metals. The most common example is the red tint of brass, unmistakably indicating the use of chemistry.
• Upon closer examination, it is possible to distinguish between cavities or scratches under an even film of plaque.
• The distribution of patina depends on the height of the relief, while in the natural case it does not.

An artificially aged coin does not add value, numismatists even claim that a true collector feels the “soul of a coin”, its noble gray hair. Such a statement is equally difficult to both prove and disprove, so we can only talk about physically obvious parameters. The only acceptable exception to artificial processes can be considered the method of accelerated oxidation in the natural environment, but this still takes many years.

Patina on coins- we know from the dictionary that the patina comes from Italy - a coating or film characteristic of copper and its alloys.

There are two types of patina:

• natural - a film formed on the surface of coins under the influence of the environment, the result of aging.
• artificial - the same film that appears on coins as a result of the application of special substances.

Many people deceptively think that the patina on the coins is ugly. But real numismatists, on the contrary, appreciate a beautiful patina, for them it is an indicator of correct and careful storage in good conditions. The patina on the coins is her life story, the era reflected in this form.

Each metal has its own patina. Silver with a patina looks beautiful - it is the result of the presence of hydrogen sulfide in the air, which forms silver sulfide ( album for coins, leather or canvas emit hydrogen sulfide). Patina on silver coins ranging from yellow, crimson to black. If a silver coin has copper in its alloy, it may develop a green coating.

In general, copper alloys such as bronze and brass are subject to more chemical reactions. Copper salts appear in the form of green and blue, and even turquoise patina. Copper oxides and sulfides are most often in the form of brown and black patina. Copper and silver gold coins may have an orange patina. There may be a little patina on nickel. Color from blue, gray and even a little golden hue.

The natural patina is formed by the influence of substances that are present in small quantities in the atmosphere. But artificially applying patina to the coin is not a difficult task and will not take much time and effort.

We will consider the methods of patination:

• Baking coins in the oven someone bakes them even in potatoes;
• Soaking in a thin layer of acid, bleaching agents with sulfur content;
• Burning coins with a blowtorch;
• Soaking in potassium permanganate, vitriol and distilled water;
• Coating the coin with sulfuric ointment in hot water;
• Aging in a closed container with crushed match heads;
• Storage in direct sunlight;
• Storage in oak boards ("Cabinet patina");
• Sealing in a regular envelope with sulfur content.

And in more detail about one or two of the simplest ways to make a patina on coins with your own hands:

1. Buy distilled water, copper sulphate and potassium permanganate at the pharmacy. In 1 liter of distilled water, dilute 50 grams of vitriol and 5 grams of potassium permanganate, bring it to 70 - 80 ° C, lower it into the solution of coins, after a while you will see changes. Keep the coin in the solution until the desired color is obtained.
2. Treat the coin with sulfuric ointment, which you also purchase at the pharmacy. Apply sulfuric ointment to a glove, then apply a glove to a coin. The application of sulfuric ointment and its rubbing is carried out under water, it is enough to use a bath that completely places the coin in itself, and of course there is a place for hands. Rub until no shiny areas remain on the coin. At the end, under running water, rinse off excess, wipe with a napkin, dry. Polish the surface with a soft cloth, then rinse the coin with soap and a soft brush, the main thing is not to overdo it. The blackness will come off and leave a light brown patina. Dry your coin.

Artificial patina is often a flaw in the coin. And the natural patina for the amateur is appreciated by numismatists as a dignity and even an advantage. So apply the patina in a way that is convenient for you, the main thing is that it is valuable to you.

And how to keep coins from your collection so that no factors affect the deterioration of its condition, we talk about in our other articles. The site also provides photos with a detailed description of the operation and the importance of using the album for coins. a clear example of a way of storing valuables of this kind. Good luck with collecting!