Purchase of antique watches. Evaluation of an antique watch from a photo. Collecting watches is a fascinating hobby A watch collector is called

The art of making watches in any era was considered the prerogative of the best masters of their craft. The names of the famous workshops are known to almost everyone who is guided in time not only by the Sun and the stars. Some of the pieces, recognized as true masterpieces, are a brilliant and harmonious combination of precision mechanics and jewelery. The watches were designed and manufactured individually, to order, the craftsmen practiced exclusively manual, but at the same time surprisingly accurate assembly, which guaranteed durability.

If your "old clock" is still running, and you prefer to find out the exact time from your smartphone, then you can think about how to get rid of the absolutely chic and stylish, but, alas, completely useless and unnecessary thing to you most quickly and profitably. The purchase of antique watches is carried out after they have been checked and checked by a master watchmaker; in this case, the seller does not bear any costs for checking them. Buying an antique watch is a kind of a standard of success among collectors, but not every experienced watchmaker can professionally evaluate an antique watch, only a master of old mechanisms will do. Antique watches have always been in great demand at auctions and in the antique market. Rare watches, made in renowned workshops, serve for a very long time, and with careful handling, they count down the time spent on Earth for several generations without significant wear and tear.

Which clocks are considered antique?

• • • Exclusive hand-made items. In this case, the popularity of the watch brand is also taken into account. It is possible to sell rare watches that fall under this category quite quickly and profitably afterwards.
    • Antique clock in good condition. Evaluated not only appearance and general safety, but also the deterioration of the mechanism, as well as the accuracy of the movement. Selling antique watches dating back to the 19th century and older can now be very expensive, but only after more careful consideration. However, the approximate cost can also be found from the photo with the help.
    • A collection watch that made a revolution, or any other revolution in watchmaking that suits you. A watch is not a bicycle, it can be reinvented forever. Temples were rebuilt, counting minutes with the help of the Sun and the Moon, mechanisms became more complicated, cuckoos evolved. Some of the surviving watches were the first in their category - and they are the real value for collectors. Collectible watches can now be sold quickly and expensively, provided they are well preserved and authentic.
    • Names, awards and other cult watches associated with any historical or cultural events, famous owners and watchmakers. Everything is clear here - and among the watches there are real "stars" who were participants in significant events, who starred in famous films and adorned the wrists (optional) famous people... It is interesting that such watches are hunted not only by professional collectors, but also by the most loyal fans of actors, musicians, football players and politicians, who seek to get a piece of the idol in their full ownership.

How and where to appreciate antique watches?

Collecting watches is not as easy as it seems at first glance. It's not enough just to buy all the models that you like. And the hardest part in this business is to start. You need to have a clear idea of ​​how you want to see your collection and why you need it. Before purchasing your first watch, you need to think through many nuances, including where and how you will buy them and how much you are willing to spend.

So that you do not abandon the idea of ​​acquiring your own collection, faced with the first difficulty, we asked for help from those who can be safely considered experts in this matter: from the deputy editor-in-chief of British GQ Bill Prince, watch reviewer Robin Sweetinbank and GQ freelance editor Simon de Burton.

1. Do your research

“This needs to be said, although this fact seems obvious to many. Buying a watch is as difficult as buying a fine wine or a vintage car. In this case, there is no clearly developed and one hundred percent reliable system. There is always a risk of running into scammers and buying a fake. So you need to be confident in the supplier from whom you buy the watch, and not hope that you will be able to make a good deal with some reseller. This is utopia, ”advises Bill Prince.

2. Decide on a budget

“The amount you are willing to spend on the watch plays an important role. I would not recommend buying a very expensive watch right away. After all, you do not want to grab your head and think "why did I buy them?" Plus, price shouldn't be a factor in whether you like the watch or not, ”- Simon de Burton.

3. Stick to the classics

“This is especially important if you decide to spend a fortune on hours. Don't choose too bold case designs and bright colors. You'd better trust established brands with a huge history, which have excellent classic models. For example, Rolex Oyster Perpetual, TAG Heuer Carrera or Omega Speedmaster. But if you are uncompromising in your desire to choose something unusual, take a closer look at the limited collections of these brands ”, - Robin Svitinbank.

“Rolex is the obvious choice. This is the safest investment. They are not just the most popular watches in the world. Moreover, you can always resell them. ”- Simon de Burton.

4. Don't choose fancy models

“Don't buy a watch that is too flashy or weird. The TAG Heuer Autavia and Rolex Submariner are popular for their simple design. By the end of the day, you’ll get tired of staring at the fancy dial, where you can hardly tell what time it is. In addition, the fashion for unusual models is short-lived, and their value is negligible in comparison with the classics, ”- Simon de Burton.

5. Be careful with vintage models

“Think again before you buy a vintage watch. You must be 100 percent sure of the supplier from whom you buy them. The risk of stumbling upon a fake is enormous, especially for the Cosmograph Daytona and Cosmograph Zenith models. You can lose a lot of money by contacting a scammer, or even the watch itself. After all, if they are stolen, they can be taken away, ”- Simon de Burton.

6. Take your time

“Such a purchase must be deliberate. Don't rush yourself in search of the perfect watch. Sometimes it can take several years. But it's even better, during this time your style and the idea of ​​the watch you need will finally take shape. In addition, if you want the same model throughout the entire search, you have done right choice", - Robin Svitinbank.

7. Forget Kickstarter Sponsored Brands

“You shouldn't buy watches from brands that fund Kickstarter, as these companies can go bankrupt and cease to exist at any time. Yes, there are well-known and popular brands among them, but when it comes to buying watches, reliability is more important, ”- Simon de Burton.

8. Don't forget about companies from the times of the quartz crisis.

“Leafing through old watch catalogs, you will come across more than once brands that you have never heard of. Such companies have fallen victim to the quartz crisis, despite their solid history. Unfortunately, many of them have never been revived. But this does not mean that you do not need to look closely at them. For example, Universal makes amazing chronograph and calendar watches. And they are gaining popularity again. ”- Simon de Burton.

9. Find a reliable supplier

“If you make a purchase in any of the Swiss Bucherers, you can be sure of the quality of your watch. But for this you will have to pay a lot of money. Therefore, you can take a closer look at independent brands at Page & Cooper. And high quality vintage models are often exhibited at Fellowes and Watches of Knightsbridge auctions, ”- Simon de Burton.

10. Beware of eBay

“When you buy a watch on eBay, you can't even look at it before you pay. Therefore, you should not think about such deals. And always remember the original packaging and authentic documents if you buy a watch from the previous owner, ”- Simon de Burton.

11. Take a friend with you

“If you are completely overwhelmed by the idea of ​​buying your first watch, then, most likely, for the sake of it you are ready to browse all the sites and fly around half the world. And in order not to go crazy and not to get lost in diversity, it is better to have a friend, an accomplice or at least an advisor, who can facilitate the search at any moment, ”- Bill Prince.

12. Consider the parameters

“This is especially true for online shopping, because you cannot try on a watch. Once I bought the Omega Chronostop simply because I liked them, but I didn’t pay attention to the fact that the diameter of the dial was very small and the strap was very thin. As a result, the watch did not look the way I would like it on my wide wrist, ”- Robin Svitinbank.

13. Choose what you like

“When buying a watch, it's best to take the previous advice into account. But in the end, you need to choose what you like. Most of the collections started with watches in which their owner felt confident and comfortable ”, - Robin Svitinbank.

14. How do you want to be remembered

“This may sound like a creepy question, but how would you like to be remembered? I have my grandfather's Rolex and I hope to pass it on and all the watches to my children and someday my grandchildren. And I would really like them to remind them of who I was. A watch can be called a reflection of a person's individuality and values. They are as important to us as rings are for women, ”- Robin Sweetinbank.

Collector's Starter Kit

Now you know what to consider before buying your first watch for your collection. But to be sure to the end that you got it right, Simon de Burton has picked up a few models to start with.

1

A classic Rolex

“I mean the Rolex GMT-Master or Submariner. These are versatile models that will always be popular so you can resell them. However, be prepared that they will not be bought too soon. "

GMT-Master II, Rolex, £ 7150 at rolex.com

2

Something from an independent brand

“For example, from F.P. Journe - Chronomètre Souverain or Centigraphe Chronograph. Any watch from one of these brands you like will be a very good buy. "

Chronomètre Souverain Caliber 1304, F.P. Journe, POA at fpjourne.com

3

Classic Omega

“And although it's a very popular brand, there are some cool and not-so-hyped models to be found, such as the Speedmaster or the Seamaster. And they also have a beautiful limited edition, released for the 50th anniversary of the Master collection. It is definitely worth taking a closer look at. "

Seamaster Co-Axial Master Chronometer, Omega, £ 6,000 at beaverbrooks.co.uk

4

Something from the Roger W Smith collection

“This watch is very expensive and very prestigious. The brand creates only ten hours a year, and they have a waiting list for six years ahead. So if you make a deposit and join the queue now, your order will be ready just by the time you have time to save up for it. "

Series 1, Roger W Smith, POA at rwsmithwatches.co.uk

5

Calatrava patek philippe

"If you decide to build your own watch collection, then someday you will definitely want to replenish it with this model."

Any Belarusian can afford Rolex watches, Armani jeans and Gucci glasses. Numerous fakes, which sellers prefer to worthily call replicas, are a logical continuation of many aspects of our life: not to be, but to seem. Our today's hero Sergei talks about his collection and sincerely believes that wearing a fake watch is like not respecting yourself.

Currently, Sergey, who is also a forum member of farmer +, works as one of the leaders of a large company. His watch collection numbers 70-80 pieces. Due to the specifics, it is not cheap, of course, but there are no copies at exorbitant prices in it either.

- My first watch appeared in the eighties, when I was studying at the Leningrad Institute. It was Flight. Then my father gave me a fashionable watch “Electronics” from the “Glasnost and Perestroika” collection. Until now, they occupy a worthy place in the collection. Recently offered interesting exchange options.

At that time every man had a watch. Other gadgets have not yet been invented, but it was somehow necessary to keep track of the time. Swiss Made was then available to units. The Japanese Orient was a more massive benchmark of fashion and coolness.

- About 20 years ago, I spent a lot of time at work in the UAE. Once I stood, I remember, in front of the window of a watch boutique and dreamed of Tissot,- Sergey recalls.

But Tissot never happened in his life. Back in Belarus, Sergei bought Casio. And then, as an enthusiastic person, he contracted the same "clock sickness".

- When one desire appeared - to understand watches, the other disappeared - to run along with the crowd and the mass market.

Later, our hero expectedly had Orient. But the first "serious" watch was Titoni CosmoKing.

- Solid Swiss manufacturer. I just liked them, and now I understand why. This is a homage - a watch inspired by Rolex. Not copying, but styling. They cost me about $ 850 at a discount. I was sure that I would not have a more expensive watch.

But interest did not fade away. At some point, I wanted to collect a watch from different countries geographically. Now I understand that this idea is specifically contrived. The design assortment is huge, the engineering one is not at all. Watch mechanisms are made in Switzerland, Japan, China, India, Russia. Paradoxically, Belarus can be included in this series. Luch is still actually a manufactory, since it can produce everything on its own. Does little, but can.

Most of the watches today are made in China - if not the mechanisms, then their components, cases, hands, dials. The problem even touched the famous Swiss Made brand. Until recently, it could be installed if the mechanism and at least 50% of the parts were made in Switzerland. But all the same, the manufacturers went for gimmicks. Since January 1 of this year, the share of local production has increased to 60%. Some consider this measure to be insufficient. For example, the manufacturer H. Moser & Cie with the slogan “No to Swiss Made, yes to Swissness” removed the Swiss Made brand from their watches. Even earlier, Patek Philippe took this step, believing that its own brand already carries more value.

In general, a geographical collection is such a kind self-deception.

One of the parts of Sergei's collection is Soviet vintage.

- I pay tribute to that period. In the sixties and seventies, the Soviet chasprom competed with the Swiss.

"Komandirskie" is one of the most famous and authoritative watches of the Soviet period.

Curve and oblique "Glory". Asymmetry is not a marriage, but a good design solution.

- One of best designs- thin "Ray" on the movement 2209. This watch is still respected in the world. I bought some of them, oddly enough, on eBay.

This watch "Slava" is very dear to me: my grandfather had the same one. Very harmonious design. I specifically searched for similar ones for a long time and eventually found them in Hungary.

You may still see ads offering to buy a watch from the USSR era. It is unlikely that these are connoisseurs of retro, but rather ordinary buyers of precious metals: watches were covered with gilding.

- Is it profitable to sell? Of course, they certainly have some value. You can get several tens of dollars, for a rare model - several hundred, but this is much less common. These are more expensive - these are new old "Slava", new old stock, that is, they have never been used. Such collectors value more than used ones.

Several models and mechanisms have survived the country successfully. Here is an interesting Russian mechanical alarm clock. Inside is the "Flight" mechanism, produced back in the eighties. The alarm clock works in vibration mode for a few seconds.

- During the World Ice Hockey Championship I bought Luch. All IIHF partnerships are owned by Tissot, so this is an unofficial version. But still, they are frankly hockey: hockey player, dividing the hour scale into three periods. Inside - Japanese Miyota movement. The result is a solid model. I constantly advise my overseas colleagues on the American watch forum where to buy it. In general, "Luch", "Vostok", "Flight", like other Soviet brands, are well known in the American watchmaking environment.

- We have on the forum thread good rule: if a person is looking for advice, then he needs help. And the question is usually asked like this: you need a watch for every day from a reputable manufacturer, not a well-worn brand, with a twist for 400-600 rubles. I recommend considering a Japanese watch with such a budget,- says Sergey and shows that he came with Citizen Eco-Drive Super Titanium on his hand. - This is one of my favorite models, and about this I would recommend to half of interested beginners. Instead of a battery (I appreciate the mechanics, but I am aware that quartz is enough for many amateurs), it contains a battery that is charged by light. It will last up to 10 years. The technology is called Eco-Drive. Seiko has a similar energy-saving technology called Kinetic - the battery is charged by movement. Moreover, such watches are relatively affordable and made of a very pleasant and light alloy.

Sergey's set (this is a regularly used part of the collection) consists of a dozen models.

- Something is chosen according to the mood, something - according to the rules of good taste. For example, it is customary to wear a small diameter three-pointer with a suit without complications. For example, this one. An interesting watch, although many may doubt the manufacturer - Indian HMT.

- James Bond wore under a suit of Omega, the size of which is not small at all ...

- Dmitry Medvedev wears a Casio G-Shock under his jacket. This is fine. The style is blurred. I'm talking about canon rules. For example, Alexander Lukashenko's watches - Patek Philippe Calatrava - fall into the classic style.

There is an intermediate option between classic and casual. I call such a "costume diver" - it's a classic model plus some features. For example, Eterna KonTiki. This iconic model is dedicated to the famous trip of Thor Heyerdahl on the Kon-Tiki raft in 1947. She has already gone through several reprints, but is still popular, including on our forum. However, if there are those who want to call the model pure casual, I will not argue.

Daily hours are suitable for 90% of situations and going out.

Along with large companies, there are micro-brands. Watch enthusiasts accumulate ideas, raise money through crowdfunding, buy mechanisms, order cases and parts. By analogy, these can be called craft watches. At first, the production is small, but over time it can grow into a large company. This path, for example, was taken by the British Christopher Ward.

- The Canadian company Cobra De Caliber is one such microbrand. Their watches do not have insane authority in the watchmaking world, but they have a memorable design and interesting functionality: a rotating inner bezel that allows you to measure time intervals. As a result, the entire circulation of these watches has already been sold out, a real hunt has begun for them on specialized watch forums.

- A wristwatch today is not a source of information. It is an accessory and a delight for engineering genius. I cannot at first glance determine the character of the interlocutor, but his watch will help me. For example, there are two people in front of you: one with Tissot, the other with Hamilton. These are about the same brands in cost, but only the second one betrays a desire to find one's own, an interest in a topic, an individuality.

All stories about female hunters who can immediately determine the state of a man in a club by his watch are journalistic fictions. Of course, there are experts, but most of them are not. In addition, there is great amount replicas that are difficult to distinguish from the original even at a second glance. And there are those that cannot be identified without an autopsy. The level of forgeries is high, although things usually come down to us that do not stand up to scrutiny.

From my point of view, a replica is always and in everything bad. Passers-by may not recognize her, but you yourself know the truth. What for? It is dishonest and even dishonest in relation to oneself. Better to prefer a solid Seiko or an honest "Ray".

Natalia Erofeevskaya

We can safely say that the topic of collecting has not spared a single person. Porcelain figurines, postage stamps, toys, postcards, beer caps and coasters, herbariums and outlandish insects - the instinct of collecting in a person has lived, is alive and will live. Today we will talk about a rather expensive, but incredibly attractive form of collecting - collecting wrist watch has a whole army of fans.

Watch collection

When choosing such an unusual hobby, many people ask themselves what is the name of collecting watches? In fact, there is no special term, whether we are talking about antiques or modern ones, but you can often find the unofficial name of such a hobby is horology... And although the term "chorology" directly denotes the sciences of measuring time, it still has some relation to watches. And then you can often hear that collectors of antique, Soviet or original watches are called chorologists.

What watches to collect?

For himself, a novice collector first of all determines direction of "watch" collecting: antiques, wall clocks, pocket clocks, clocks from factories of the USSR, etc. Of course, portable clocks have a definite advantage: they take up much less space in the collection than, say, their wall or floor counterparts. But the size of the collectible exhibit does not affect the cost - a small wrist or pocket watch can cost much more than a weighty clock with a pendulum, a cuckoo and the like.

Howard Miller Wall Clock

The collection may contain completely different items: workers and those that can no longer be forced to walk, watches of a certain country (for example, Soviet or Japanese), or watches that are somehow connected with significant events in the life of the owner of the collection. The desire of collectors to get something unique in their collection is also quite understandable: some watches are produced in limited series, cost considerable sums, and true collectors of watches sometimes arrange a real hunt for them.

Collectible men's wrist watch "Poljot" President

It is worth talking about Soviet watches separately - wrist watch of the USSR era can hardly be called a work of art: they, as a rule, are laconic and strict, there is nothing superfluous in them. Often such watches were dedicated to certain historical events in the life of the country and the Soviet people: the launch of rockets and artificial earth satellites, nuclear submarines, icebreakers, etc. the day is prized in collector markets around the world.

A significant plus of Soviet watches is their quality: watches in such collections can last for decades with a minimum of maintenance.

Men's and women's wristwatches

If we speak about collecting pocket watches, then these are exclusively male models: during the time of their mass use, ladies were not supposed to wear personal watches. Pocket watches were notable for their massiveness, made of precious metals (often of gold), decorated with expensive stones and an impressive chain.

Collectible Skeleton Pocket Watch

But the history of watches with a bracelet began exactly the opposite: graceful and not very (depending on the manufacturer and cost) watches were decorated exclusively with female hands for a long time. For men of that era, solid pocket watches remained a status item.

Wristwatches for men became popular during the First World War. The watches, which cost more than pocket ones, were distinguished by the quality and accuracy of the movement, and were necessary for commanders and senior officers when planning and conducting operations, and performing combat missions. Soldiers who distinguished themselves at the front were awarded with personalized copies, such chronometers, in the event of the death of a soldier, were handed over to his relatives along with military awards and personal belongings.

Soviet wrist watch

It's no secret that for collectors, some chronometer models are more desirable, others less. The October Revolution changed not only the course of history, but also practically discontinued the release of new models of chronometers: tsarist factories were destroyed, production was liquidated, private workshops were ruined. Only decades later, in 1930, the production of wristwatches was resumed, but first of all they provided the country's defense forces: the army, aviation, and the navy. Wrist watches for men and women for the mass civilian consumer began to be produced only after the Second World War.

Watch Submarine "Antey"

"Pobeda", "Vostok", "Seagull", "Luch", "Flight" - all these names are familiar even to those who are far from collecting watches. They were worn by moms and dads, and grandmothers and grandfathers could have such watches as a reward for military or labor merits. Collecting wristwatches from the USSR especially highlights the following brands of a certain year of release that are the most interesting for collectors:

• "Victory" issue of 1946;
• Rodina - the first self-winding models produced in 1956;
• chronometers with signal "Flight" of 1959;
• among the rare models of women's wristwatches, one should especially highlight the miniature watch "Zarya" of the Moscow Watch Factory of 1955;
• and, of course, "Komandirskie" - reliable, practical, distinguished by a holistic design and well-thought-out ergonomics of the case.

"Komandirskie" watches were not released in large quantities - they were created specially by order of the Ministry of Defense of the Soviet Union

Where to start collecting watches?

For many collectors, the acquisition of rare and unique models of watches from different eras and countries becomes not just a hobby, but even the meaning of life. The goals of such collecting can be completely different. For example, scientific or historical activities, the placement of personal capital, the compilation of family collections that could be passed on from generation to generation, the prestige and respect of friends, etc.

Scope and content of such collections often directly depend on the financial capabilities of their owners, when purchasing unique copies, it is recommended to focus on the Price Guide to Watch price list published annually in the USA. Beginners are encouraged to search for information - specialized books and magazines, museums, exhibitions and auctions will help determine the era of future collection items, models and cost.

Original collectible watches

The most accessible for the initial stage are watches of the Soviet period, with the growth of the collection you can switch to more expensive Japanese models, military military watches, "amphibians" of old issues and military chronographs and designer pieces, the cost of which exceeds thousands and tens of thousands of dollars and euros.

"The Golden Age of Watchmaking" corresponds to the period of the 1950s-1970s: most of the models of that time were assembled by craftsmen by hand, and therefore the quality and accuracy of the mechanisms were at the highest level. In the pre-quartz period (1960-1970) the so-called tuning fork and electromechanical watches were produced - these transitional models were few, and therefore to this day many collectors dream of getting such an interesting piece in their collection.

Electromechanical table clock

Both beginners and collectors with experience pay attention, of course, not only to the brand itself and the origin of the watch, but also for the originality of each copy: every detail must be authentic, since replacing even an insignificant element with a non-original one significantly reduces the cost of the entire piece. Reputable auction houses closely monitor such moments and, if there is an unoriginal item in the watch, they may demand a refund of the purchase amount, taking into account moral damage.

Note that there is a definite tendency among specialists in the field of watch collections: watches from vintage periods are slowly but surely losing their attractiveness to collectors. Collecting newbies increasingly prefer modern models of unusual designs, because they can be a good investment of capital, and over time they will only grow in value.

Keeping in mind the growing demand, renowned brands and designers have specially produced a series of chronometers aimed at collectors.

September 18, 2018 2:41 pm

Some watch lovers become interested in vintage watches at some point in time. Often - pocket watches, because they are "older" than wrist watches.

There are quite a few reasons for this, as they say, each has his own and, in general, the choice is a matter of everyday life. But several can be distinguished. The first is interest in antiques and history. Many watch lovers are much more interested in looking at a product with a 100-year history, which "survived" the First World War, the 1917 Revolution, the Great Patriotic War and other important historical milestones, than a quartz craft in a standard case.

Second, antique pocket watches allow you to actively expand your collection without making significant investments. If, of course, we are talking about affordable and simple models. Someone will be much more interested in "collecting" Swiss watches, moreover, famous brands such as Omega, Zenith and Chopard, than buying another faceless homage - for the same amount.

Zenith Pocket Watch (1917). Price category - up to 300 euros
Pocket watch Omega (1926). Price category up to 300 euros
Pocket watch L.U. Chopard (1890). Price category - up to 300 euros

Third, some people just like the style of old watches. All these arrows, engravings and so on - this is practically not present in modern watches, if you do not take into account the premium class.

Collecting antique watches is also an investment. Such watches, at least, do not get cheaper. Many grow in value. Unlike almost any modern new watch (I took off the films, put it on once - already minus 10%).

Of course, collecting old watches is not so easy. Watches require special care, cleaning and lubrication, often - restoration, replacement of glass, hands and much more. Hours that run for a day or more are relatively rare, so you will have to wind them up often. And not completely. Sellers, through malicious intent or unknowingly, can slip you outright junk, "cutlet" (watches assembled from various remnants of spare parts) or even a remake. Anything can happen. But, if you do everything right and do not rush, then the old clock will delight you.

Some watches are sold at auctions as “run for a few minutes”. This usually means that someone tried to revive them with oil, but overflowed it. Again, the treatment is cleansing. But if you're not a jack of all trades, cleaning will be more expensive than buying a good watch right away. Especially in the case of cheap mass watches from the Second World War. They cost 30-70 euros. Therefore, if you are not a master of mechanisms, then immediately take a normally working clock.

On your own, you can perform the following operations: wipe the watch case with a velvet cloth (you can use a polish for the watch) and (this is already an advanced level) clean the watch case with a special paste or just toothpaste (after pulling out the mechanism). By cleaning, you will remove plaque from the case, patina, and sometimes even the smallest scratches. Large scratches will require special tools and skills. Replacing glass is a simple procedure (for a master) and relatively inexpensive. But the dial is the face of the clock. If it has shortcomings, then they can often be eliminated, but this is painstaking and expensive work. Therefore, again, it is better to immediately choose a watch with well-preserved dials. The "gossamer" on the number is not a very good sign, if it is very noticeable, then this dial will be replaced.

A separate topic is arrows. Often they are not original. A comparison with other watches of the same company or a simple observation can help here: whether the minute hand gets the division on the dial. If not, then the arrows are definitely not the original. Glasses are also often changed, especially on the oldest watches, where originally there was ordinary glass (plastic glasses were invented in the mid-20s of the 20th century). In general, there are a lot of nuances.

All old pocket watches can be divided into 2 large groups. Of course, this division is only suitable for residents of the former USSR. So, this is: Soviet and foreign watches. The first group is all kinds of Lightning, ZIMs and other Soviet-made watches, which cost very moderately, and give quite a lot of joy. Moreover, for a beginner. As they say, buy yourself a Lightning and think, do you really need all this? Of course, all watches are divided by time periods, the same model may cost differently depending on the year of production, but more on that later.

The second group is the Western clock. Swiss, English, French, American and German. Several time periods can also be distinguished in them. These will be just inexpensive mass simple watches (in the overwhelming majority of cases, watches with the function of hours, minutes and seconds, that is, 3-hands in cases of maximum silver).

Well, pre-revolutionary Russian brands like Pavel Bure and Kalashnikov can be distinguished into a separate subgroup. These watches were assembled from European components, but on the territory of Russia, so they occupy a kind of intermediate position.

Pocket watch Pavel Bure, early 20th century. Price category - up to 300 euros

European watches in the available category are of 2 types: with a crown and with a key winding (key). Other things being equal, key prices are often lower, although it would seem that this is a more "vintage" type of watch. The reason is that they are very expensive to repair, and repairs can be more expensive than buying the same watch in good condition. Therefore, it is better to immediately take a high-quality watch with a winding key.

And a few words about prices. Of course, all with a high degree of convention. Prices vary a lot. The same watch at a flea market, in an antique store, on eBay, or bought from a master can cost completely different money. This is a guideline just so that the reader can understand how much it might cost in principle. Since the situation with the ruble exchange rate is very unstable now, it will be necessary to indicate the price in US dollars.

An ordinary Soviet lightning of the 70-80s in excellent condition will cost about $ 20-30 and more. For Europeans - for $ 200-250 you can buy something like a simple Zenith of the 20-30s in good condition. The Pavel Bure watch, produced before 1917, in average condition will cost about the same amount: it's all about limited competition, in the West there are few such watches.

Where to buy? Antique stores, flea markets, online auctions (specialized and global like eBay, as well as Russian), Western online stores. Everywhere has its pros and cons.
We will talk more about specific watches in the following publications. Moreover, we will have a corresponding section for pocket watches.

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